1-11-11
Cold---28 degrees---but bone dry.
Light winds blowing from the east.
The waves are small---only around 4 feet....at best.
Paddled out on a 10'2 with too much rocker
for such a small day.
I was so incredibly warm.
Even with east winds.
Never even a chill....
My paddle out I produced a serious sweat.
I ducked under water and floated to get some water in
my suit....I needed to cool off.
But it's 30 degrees out?
Bitchin' suit.
4 foot A frame peak.
4 guys out.
Wave after wave after wave.
Tired.
But then....
I watched 3 waves break way off to the left....way out on the headland.
Paddled in ....to my truck.
Put away my longboard.
Get my shortboard.
Walked out a couple hundred yards over the rocks.
1 person followed me out.
It's breaking right on the rocks.
But so perfect.
Unnecessary and undesirable to most who love this wave.
But it was so flawless.
Just a bit rocky....
Right on the rocks that is.
Catch one wave....looking down a barrel.
Perfection.
Got too deep...
Closed out.
Laid flat but my ass bounced off a boulder.
Board wedged in rocks.
Board check....ok.....
paddle back out.
Rocks underwater only 1 foot deep.
Dry rock on one attempted takeoff.
Why?
Because it's so damn pretty.
Rolled a little on the rocks on the third wave.
Small but fast.
So peaceful.
Wait.....
Wait.....
Is that....
Yeah...
It's snowing.
Snowflakes.
Detailed and and symmetrical.
Perfect waves.
Perfect ice crystals.
Here comes a wave....
The biggest of the day.
Clean line.
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It's been a long journey up and down the west coast---roaming to find a home for over 30 years. Found my home on the mighty North Pacific coastline.
Waters been warm. Monday afternoon was good too. And quiet. Musta been the big ducks game? Not a fan so…...
ReplyDeleteAre you running the R3 or R4?
R-
Yeah---charts say the water is 48 degrees but it feels much warmer.
ReplyDeleteAnd yeah monday was good.
I wear the R4 from Dec to Feb.
But I have the R3 hooded for the summer.
Right on. Josh was sayin an R3 is as warm as R.C. F-Bomb 5/4/3. Think you could get away with the R3 all year round? Have you tested it in the winter? Jus curious as I may go that route eventually. Any advice would be appreciated.
ReplyDeleteR-
Yes the R3 would be fine 90% of the time.
ReplyDeleteAnd the other 10% you could just throw a thin Merino wool undershirt underneath and be cooking.
I am just trying to 'use my R4 up' and save the R3.
But last winter I wore an R3 with a detachable hood even when it was snowing.
Definitely---MOST definitely---get one.
It's a game changer.
...