Tuesday, January 11, 2011


Cold---28 degrees---but bone dry.
Light winds blowing from the east.
The waves are small---only around 4 feet....at best.

Paddled out on a 10'2 with too much rocker
for such a small day.

I was so incredibly warm.
Even with east winds.
Never even a chill....

My paddle out I produced a serious sweat.
I ducked under water and floated to get some water in
my suit....I needed to cool off.

But it's 30 degrees out?

Bitchin' suit.

4 foot A frame peak.
4 guys out.
Wave after wave after wave.


But then....

I watched 3 waves break way off to the left....way out on the headland.
Paddled in ....to my truck.
Put away my longboard.

Get my shortboard.

Walked out a couple hundred yards over the rocks.
1 person followed me out.
It's breaking right on the rocks.
But so perfect.

Unnecessary and undesirable to most who love this wave.
But it was so flawless.
Just a bit rocky....
Right on the rocks that is.

Catch one wave....looking down a barrel.
Got too deep...
Closed out.
Laid flat but my ass bounced off a boulder.

Board wedged in rocks.
Board check....ok.....
paddle back out.

Rocks underwater only 1 foot deep.
Dry rock on one attempted takeoff.
Because it's so damn pretty.

Rolled a little on the rocks on the third wave.

Small but fast.

So peaceful.

Is that....


It's snowing.

Detailed and and symmetrical.

Perfect waves.
Perfect ice crystals.

Here comes a wave....
The biggest of the day.

Clean line.


  1. Waters been warm. Monday afternoon was good too. And quiet. Musta been the big ducks game? Not a fan so…...

    Are you running the R3 or R4?


  2. Yeah---charts say the water is 48 degrees but it feels much warmer.

    And yeah monday was good.

    I wear the R4 from Dec to Feb.
    But I have the R3 hooded for the summer.

  3. Right on. Josh was sayin an R3 is as warm as R.C. F-Bomb 5/4/3. Think you could get away with the R3 all year round? Have you tested it in the winter? Jus curious as I may go that route eventually. Any advice would be appreciated.


  4. Yes the R3 would be fine 90% of the time.
    And the other 10% you could just throw a thin Merino wool undershirt underneath and be cooking.

    I am just trying to 'use my R4 up' and save the R3.
    But last winter I wore an R3 with a detachable hood even when it was snowing.

    Definitely---MOST definitely---get one.
    It's a game changer.