Cold---28 degrees---but bone dry.
Light winds blowing from the east.
The waves are small---only around 4 feet....at best.
Paddled out on a 10'2 with too much rocker
for such a small day.
I was so incredibly warm.
Even with east winds.
Never even a chill....
My paddle out I produced a serious sweat.
I ducked under water and floated to get some water in
my suit....I needed to cool off.
But it's 30 degrees out?
4 foot A frame peak.
4 guys out.
Wave after wave after wave.
I watched 3 waves break way off to the left....way out on the headland.
Paddled in ....to my truck.
Put away my longboard.
Get my shortboard.
Walked out a couple hundred yards over the rocks.
1 person followed me out.
It's breaking right on the rocks.
But so perfect.
Unnecessary and undesirable to most who love this wave.
But it was so flawless.
Just a bit rocky....
Right on the rocks that is.
Catch one wave....looking down a barrel.
Got too deep...
Laid flat but my ass bounced off a boulder.
Board wedged in rocks.
paddle back out.
Rocks underwater only 1 foot deep.
Dry rock on one attempted takeoff.
Because it's so damn pretty.
Rolled a little on the rocks on the third wave.
Small but fast.
Detailed and and symmetrical.
Perfect ice crystals.
Here comes a wave....
The biggest of the day.