1-11-11

Cold---28 degrees---but bone dry.
Light winds blowing from the east.
The waves are small---only around 4 feet....at best.

Paddled out on a 10'2 with too much rocker
for such a small day.

I was so incredibly warm.
Even with east winds.
Never even a chill....

My paddle out I produced a serious sweat.
I ducked under water and floated to get some water in
my suit....I needed to cool off.

But it's 30 degrees out?

Bitchin' suit.

4 foot A frame peak.
4 guys out.
Wave after wave after wave.

Tired.

But then....

I watched 3 waves break way off to the left....way out on the headland.
Paddled in ....to my truck.
Put away my longboard.

Get my shortboard.

Walked out a couple hundred yards over the rocks.
1 person followed me out.
It's breaking right on the rocks.
But so perfect.

Unnecessary and undesirable to most who love this wave.
But it was so flawless.
Just a bit rocky....
Right on the rocks that is.

Catch one wave....looking down a barrel.
Perfection.
Got too deep...
Closed out.
Laid flat but my ass bounced off a boulder.

Board wedged in rocks.
Board check....ok.....
paddle back out.

Rocks underwater only 1 foot deep.
Dry rock on one attempted takeoff.
Why?
Because it's so damn pretty.

Rolled a little on the rocks on the third wave.

Small but fast.

So peaceful.

Wait.....
Wait.....
Is that....

Yeah...

It's snowing.

Snowflakes.
Detailed and and symmetrical.

Perfect waves.
Perfect ice crystals.

Here comes a wave....
The biggest of the day.

Clean line.