Surfing cold water equals freedom-----

Sunny December day.
Offshore winds.
No one out.
So many waves.
Tired.
Walk an empty beach.
To an empty parking lot.
Watch the ocean as I take off my wetsuit.
It's 32 degrees out.
But I am so warm?

Naked in the parking lot?
No one here?
What a dream.

Cold water.
Warm wetsuit.
FREEDOM.

This video clearly exemplifies the determination a few of us are defined by---- and proud of--- surfing in the cold and rugged north pacific.