Sunny December day.
Offshore winds.
No one out.
So many waves.
Tired.
Walk an empty beach.
To an empty parking lot.
Watch the ocean as I take off my wetsuit.
It's 32 degrees out.
But I am so warm?
Naked in the parking lot?
No one here?
What a dream.
Cold water.
Warm wetsuit.
FREEDOM.
This video clearly exemplifies the determination a few of us are defined by---- and proud of--- surfing in the cold and rugged north pacific.
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