Tuesday, December 15, 2009

The Pro Leisurist



I just finished watching a 30 minute segment of television about a professional surfer who lives in San Diego county. His giant afro of light brown hair throws him into a very predictable stereotype and the camera lights were sure to exemplify every salt and sun bleached tip of each curl. He speaks slow and draws out his sentences as if to prove that he is sinking deep into zen to find answers to the interviewers questions.
The camera pans to a clip of the pro surfer driving his brand new car along Highway 101 in San Diego. The music in the background is folksy and cheery ….and attempts to persuade the viewer that this pro surfer’s life is one led by humility.
He is narrating and explaining how he finds that when the surf is bad he spends more time with his kids and wife. And when the surf is good he “just has to get out there”.
I am frustrated when I realize that he really thinks we are in church and I have given him a place at the pulpit. His life of leisure doesn’t make me jealous. In fact, his lack of challenge in his life is quite depressing to a person such as myself who enjoys life’s trials.
But his life of leisure does make me think---------what has our society become that we can afford the glorification of such gluttony?

The camera then follows the ’professional surfer’s’ flipping flops in through the giant glass doorway of a very popular clothing company who sponsors much of his livelihood.
The confusion and frustration in my thoughts continue as he explains his role at the company.

“I have been working with Reef shoes for a while now---trying to create a flip flop that is more sustainable and friendly to the environment.”
He holds up a rubber flip flop, bends it in his hands, and continues to explain how this particular rubber is harvested from rubber trees in a region where it has ’less impact’ on the surrounding environment.
The camera again pans---the music changes----more upbeat---inspirational---yet remaining folksy and humorously humble.
“We also decided to branch out further and create and entirely organic clothing line.“ The pro surfer explained. “ It’s small now, but I would like to see the line grow and make an impact”

Here is where he lost me.
Here is where I lost it.

I have been wrestling with this thought for many months.
The wrestling thought has nothing to do with surfing.
It is simply that surfing, as a professionally sponsored lifestyle, is a great example of the concept I have been wrestling with.

In the early 1960’s surfing was not even a sport. It was more of a lifestyle of convenience for those who were fortunate enough to live in an area that was warm, with a warm ocean, and consistent small to medium sized waves for year round enjoyment.
California was the perfect stage for surfing to act upon----and cast it’s theatrical spell on youth culture.

The fascination grew due to phenomenon’s like Beach Boy’s music, surfing Elvis Presley and Beach Blanket Bingo movies shown nationwide. Eventually, the lifestyle moved away from extreme leisure and more into the mainstream as thousands of people picked up the fascination with beach culture.
A sport evolved---and competitions arose.

And finally, through the miracle of mass textile manufacturing, surf fashion was birthed.
There were many small brands that pushed the fashion movement in the beginning.
But it was probably Ocean Pacific, also known as OP, who really pushed the mass migration of surf wear into the Midwest and beyond.

Southern California has remained at the epicenter of this fashion movement. It’s beaches are full of these fortunate modern children of Cicero who grow up in million dollar homes next to sun drenched beaches.

Without boring the non surfer, or disinterested reader, with the details I will get to my point.

The surf fashion industry is enormous. The logos plastered all over shirts are impossible to miss.
A few you may recognize from past and present are Billabong, Hurley, Op, Gotcha, No Fear, Reef, Rusty, Roxy and the mega giant Quiksilver.
Make no mistake about it, these are now giant companies in the industry of fashion.
In September of 2008 Quiksilver reported that it’s consolidated net revenues from continued operations for the third quarter of 2008 were a little over $564 million. Quiksilver brand clothes are sold in over 90 countries and it’s worldwide headquarters are in Huntington Beach, California. There is no question that just this one company sold an exuberant amount of clothing-----all in the name of surfing.
Is it any coincidence that Huntington Beach, and Los Angeles county, have some of the most polluted ocean water in the United States? It only goes to prove the level of apathy which exists in Southern California’s modern movement of convenient ignorance. Surf fashion is a proud child of the lifestyle.

Back to the pro surfer who makes his living off this parade. Or should I say he parades his living in order to call himself a pro surfer?
The pro surfer who wants to encourage his sponsor to make an ‘all organic line’ of clothing.
He wants this line to “grow and make an impact”. What this calculates to is that he wants the clothing line to sell large volumes and make his sponsor high profits.
This pro surfer is convinced that by doing so he may actually make a difference in the way surfers, and fashion minded people, view the environment which he believes we need to sustain. The only difference it’s going to make is ensuring his life of leisure.

Here is my point:
Is it possible that we have gone way beyond necessities and instead we now fret, toil, work and sweat to buy non essentials? Is it possible that we have become a society of people who are so gluttonous, so consuming, and so ego centric that we have lost who we really are as humans. Is it possible that our ego’s and our need to be continually labeled and viewed by status have overwritten our simple need to sustain and survive?
Is it possible that we are so concerned about how other’s view us, and what group they put us into, that was have over spent, over consumed and over whelmed the earth with industrial production?

Case in point: That organic surf wear t-shirt is $28.….and by buying it you will help the environment?
A clothing company can make t-shirts with their logos on them, in various styles and colors, and people will pay that said company for the right to wear that logo.

Yes, you can advertise for a fashion company by promoting their logo on your chest or back.
And you will pay $28 to do so.

That clothing company will make so much money doing so this year that they can afford to pay pro surfers, whom I now call ‘professional leisurists’, to wander around the world enjoying themselves mindlessly.
These pro leisurists will burn jet fuel while talking on their cell phones to their children at home. These pro surfers will come back to Southern California and continue to promote the beauty of surfing in a polluted ocean, breathing polluted air, and wearing fashionable clothing which YOU need to buy more of… to be like them.

And somehow----one of those ‘pro leisurists’ has become so enamored by the offer, that he is actually losing his senses and thinking he can “make a difference” by promoting a line of organic surf fashion?

The problem----is the rapid consumption and strong delusion we have all come under.
The answer is not in making more organic clothing for consumers to buy.
The answer is buying and consuming less, period, so that the organic things which are still alive on this shrinking planet will actually find a little dirt to grow in.

As for me, I am thankful that my family and I found dirt to grown in. We live in the country, I work for our food, and I am going surfing in cold and clean ocean water tomorrow morning.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

3 to 10 seconds of BLISS


It's an amazing and unique phenomenon when you experience the sensation. Riding a moving set of electrons which are pushing through a mass of water we call the ocean.
The initial step of relinquishing control over the situation is essential. Dropping into a wave means entering into a moment of temporary chaos and choosing to remain calm and react to what is in front of you ----rather than try to control the powerful moving mass of water.
The larger the wave, the less control you really have as a fleshly human.
The most fortifying events in surfing happen when no one is looking. There is no stadium of onlookers or even a parent warming a bleacher while watching you ride the wave. These moments do not edify the surfer with any sort of 'external approval'. And therefore they only add to the personal element of the experience. With so much happening while riding a wave---there is not a moment to think of who one is, where one is going, or why one exists. It is simply a moment of non judgment where as the rider experiences a true state of bliss.

Doctor Deepak Chopra put this experience into a very simple quote which exemplifies how to reach such a state. Surfing simply helps a person achieve it for 3 to 10 seconds at a time---the average length of a wave surfed.

If you want to reach a state of bliss, then go beyond your ego and the internal dialogue with ones self. Make a decision to relinquish the need to control, the need to be approved, and the need to judge. Those are the three things the ego is doing all the time. It's very important to be aware of them every time they come up.”

Can you see it....




Six headlands jut into the North Pacific along this stretch from Manzanita to the Columbia river, linked by 22 mile long beaches and scattered rock reefs. Not so much a surfing destination as a place of brooding potential for the hearty ocean loving surfer. This land lies shrouded in fog and rain clouds many days of the year and serves as a graveyard to numerous ships, the bodies of sailors laid to rest in the depths just off the sand.
But there are waves, and living here one comes to know the moods of the coast...and embracing each of them in their moment of glory is undeniably magical. These moments fortify one's connection with nature and help to define a meaning for existence---thankfulness.

Good surf is a matter of perspective and the ocean, alive with activity , gives it's own rewards to those to offer themselves day after day. The very inconsistency of the weather in this place, it's shifts and subtle changes, make it a shangra la for an adventurous person.

That is, if one has eyes to see it that way?

The springtime winds seem relentless, causing a brown sediment rich cold water upwelling. Giant 30 pound Chinook and Coho salmon taste the sediment runoff from the rivers spilling into the ocean. Scientists still do not understand why these fish swim relentlessly from the ocean up the rivers to lay their eggs, fertilize, breed, and then peacefully die. This amazing pursuit of life and death unfolds as a drama that is unseen by the average person. The roaring river and ocean overtaking every sense we have. It is hard to imagine that all this said life abounds beneath me as I paddle out to the surf which breaks at the mouth of a river.
The wind blows and stirs up the ocean into a frenzy. Still the surface is smooth in these certain coves and hidden special places. Headlands on two sides form a reserve from the elements by blocking the wind and smoothing out the chop on the water. These coves have their own unique climate and they defy the forces of nature which attempt to stir their peace.
It is purifying to find waves in such coves where you may have to hike 2 miles through 200 year old forests before you even see the water. I am assured the waves will be all mine----until someday another adventurous soul decides to wander in after researching just exactly what weather pattern will create the wave which breaks there. Amidst the saltwater baptism I feel in this place is a cathedral of sky....the dome of which is painted anew each day. There is no greater art on the planet than the clouds which are painted on the sky above.

That is, if one has eyes to see it?

To squint at the sun and make everything golden.
To tilt your head back and accept the rain on your face---letting it naturally moisturize your lines of age.
Age is just a metaphor to attempt to explain how many experiences you have had in your life.
But the experiences here are so aplenty.
In God's eyes I must be 500 years old.

If wealth were measured by the amount of beauty surrounding one in their life....I would be the richest man in Babylon. A rich man with experience of ages from so many moments of clarity and beauty?

The North Coast of Oregon on the mighty North Pacific Ocean.

..
Home.
Can you see it?